The guide

Banaras from Shivpur.

Name: Hotel Vagmi
Address: S-1/35-42, Shyam Nagar Colony, Central Jail Road, Shivpur, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, 221002, IN
Telephone: +91-9369601100
Price range: ₹₹

Shivpur is not the postcard. It is the part of Varanasi where Varanasi actually lives — quieter, residential, about eight kilometres from the river. Stay here and the river is something you go to, not something you sleep above. The mornings start at six. The aarti at Dashashwamedh is in the evening. We will book you a boat if you ask the night before.

Distances from the hotel

Kashi Vishwanath Temple8km
Dashashwamedh Ghat8km
Sarnath9km
Varanasi Junction Railway5km
LBS International Airport20km

Dawn rituals (winter)

05:45 wake-up tea in the room, if you ask the night before
06:30 cab to Assi Ghat, the most peaceful start, 7km, around 20 min
06:45 first light on the river
07:15 boat downstream to Dashashwamedh
09:00 breakfast at Flavours or in the room